April 2. {1857} New Orleans. This morning we went to the French market. The French character of the city was shown in the narrow streets through which we passed intended only for foot passengers, very narrow. The sidewalks meeting in the middle of the street except for the separation of the gutter . . . . The French market was not clean enough to suit us . . . We passed through Jackson Square and saw the monument and looked at the flowers, then went on to the Spanish Cathedral . . . .

Maria Mitchell’s description of the Vieux Carré (French Quarter) still seems true to what it is today. Having lived in NOLA for about three years – my husband was stationed there with the US Coast Guard – we lived Uptown in the Riverbend area– where the mighty Mississippi River makes a bend around the area know as Carrollton. That arch that the river makes and where the city of NOLA was carved out also gives the city its name of the Crescent City. The Vieux Carré was laid out very much like an old European city with the streets in a grid pattern – all right angles to one another but the rest of the city as it developed lost such a pattern which makes for confusion for some. Having worked for a flower and antique garden ornament shop I have the privilege of entering many private homes and driving streets in a delivery van. The one requisite for anyone going into the Vieux Carré for a delivery was they much return with beignets and café au lait from Café du Monde – even the NOLA natives requested that. But NOLA still resembles the place that Maria once visited as a young woman’s chaperone – just as her home of Nantucket still looks like it once did. There are of course all manner of new buildings, signage, risqué clubs and more that did not exist in her time. But the sidewalk street with gutter – those still exist – such as Pirate Alley. Jackson Square and the monument – still filled with flowers. The French market – still there too. And she comments on dirtiness – yes, that exists too. In fact, early in the morning they still come through to hose out the streets. And trash pick-up? Don’t be surprised if you see a garbage truck at 9PM – and don’t be surprised if you cannot find a garbage can! Somehow though, they keep it relatively clean.

JNLF